Riga will be capital of Culture in 2014, and was once the major hub of one of the most affluent countries in Europe; but I'm ashamed to say that my knowledge of it did not extend much beyond its recent history in the Eurovision Song Contest (winning in 2002), and I accept that most people don't have my interest of tacky European talent shows to fall back on for their geographical appreciation of the Baltic states, so here's my beginner's guide to Riga.
1) It's not expensive!
Nowhere is cheap anymore, but Riga definitely gets closer to the old backpacking on a shoestring myth than its Western neighbours. For a start, you can get a budget flight here. We flew with Wizz Air, who were more than adequate, aside from the irritating habit all budget airlines have developed of encouraging applause for a safe landing. I have always found this concerning, perhaps because I sense an inevitable extra charge: 'check here for a qualified pilot, £30 each way'.
Flight aside, a taxi from the airport was only 9 Lat, our accommodation (a private room for the Photographer, the Driver and I) was also only 9 Lat each. A Lat is worth around £1.21, and is one of the most valuable currencies in the world.
But best of all, for budget backpackers, is the restaurant Lido, a combination of service station meets medieval banquet. For 5 Lat each we sampled sauerkraut (delicious), unidentifiable kebabs (nice once you got passed the roulette style mystery), potatoe straws (grim), mayonnaise marinated chicken (weird), and delicious local beers.
2) It's beautiful
Old town Riga is medieval and quaint in a way that is only possible in small, unspoilt European cities. Parts of it are over 600 years old, but most of it was lovingly restored and rebuilt after successive invasions and occupations destroyed the original buildings. As a consequence there is an amazing mismatch of stunning modern 'old style' architecture, which draws the eye, and, hidden down side streets, wonky, leaning, crumbling buildings which are actually far more interesting.
3) They know how to throw a party
We were in Riga for Ligo, the midsummer party. Every year Riga holds a huge festival on the river edge of music, garland making, beer drinking, and general festivities. The locals unashamedly wear traditional folk dress, and everyone celebrates the longest night of the year and is just happy to be Latvian. As cynical Brits we couldn't help muse what state the streets would be in the following morning after 24 hours of drinking. The answer: as clean and well kept as before. Turns out Latvians can party cleanly!
4) Their turbulent history deserves hearing
In the 1930s, Latvia was one of the most prosperous countries in Europe, and was finally independent from Russia. Like its Baltic allies, it was occupied three times in the 40s, and spent many years behind the iron curtain. Now-a-days less than half the population would identify as Latvians, and 43% of Rigans are Russian, compared to 41% Latvian.
5) There is free wifi EVERYWHERE!
I have written this blog in crazy places the world over, one memorable moment involved standing on a toilet in an Italian campsite, holding the laptop above my head to get wifi signal. I have no such problems in Latvia, there is free wifi everywhere! Restaurants, public squares, long distance trains. That is one very good reason to fall in love with a country!
Riga is beautiful, and brimming full of character, charm, and unassuming food, drinks and views, so get there, quick, before everyone else finds out!
No comments:
Post a Comment